Unexcused Absences

We didn’t ski a single turn last winter because we spent January through May in the Bahamas. This year we were due for some skiing, but that would mean giving up a couple months on the Miss Adventure. It’s to my continued annoyance that I can’t be in two places at one time, so we had to choose. Hence, Vail.

China Bowl, Vail

Vail is possibly the most famous ski area in America, maybe second to Aspen. The area is adjacent to, and four times as big as, Beaver Creek, where we spent five winters in a row up until our 2015/2016 winter in the Bahamas. This year Heather found (and rented for us) the second-smallest condo in Vail, located across from Solaris Plaza and a six minute walk from Gondola One.

Our condo; second floor, far right, foreground

We flew out the day after the MLK long weekend, with the plan to stay until the first weekend of spring break. Since we didn’t want to be inconvenienced by actually working at the resort, with only 43 potential days of skiing in our schedule, we chose not to re-apply for our on-hill jobs that we had at the Beav (Vail and Beaver Creek are all one big happy company, so getting work at Vail would have been easy).

Vail Village

The weather in Colorado did not look promising at the beginning of the season. Vail had to delay its opening, and was plagued by warm temperatures and no snow all through November. Fortunately, in December, Al Gore relented and allowed some cold and snow to hit the Rockies. The Colorado resorts received almost an entire winter’s worth of snow in the seven weeks starting early December. And, because timing is everything, we arrived for that last week of heavy snow, during the best conditions of the season.

Lots of snow in the West Vail Mall parking lot

We tried to ease our ski muscles into shape, we really did, but the skiing was so terrific that we worked ourselves to exhaustion the first five days. Our fifth day was easily our second best powder skiing day ever, topped only by an incredible session in the French Alps in 2013. The powder in the back bowls was deep and plentiful. For some reason the resort was not crowded at all – possibly because the locals had already enjoyed 6+ weeks of continuous powder skiing. It was close to noon when we took the series of photos below in Siberia Bowl and Inner Mongolia Bowl.

Heather gets some quality powder time

Bolshoi Ballroom in Siberia Bowl

That’s me sampling a pristine powder field, Inner Mongolia Bowl

After the storm track returned to normal (one snowfall every 7-10 days), we got down to some serious socializing, and met up with our friends Greg and Susan, Audre and Dimitri, Elizabeth and Michael, Ellen and Emil, Harry and Debbie, Jeff and Christine, plus Praz, Megan, Jen, Guy, Sean, Kevin, “Tahoe” Joe, “Other” Kent, and Mike. We had several visits to the spa at the Four Seasons, courtesy of our friends who own a condo there, and we took evening walks through Vail Village and visited our favorite restaurants (the Minturn Saloon, Crazy Mountain Brewery, Tiamo, Moe’s BBQ, Vendetta’s, Blue Moose Pizza). Plus there were parties and gatherings and we basically didn’t have a free minute for a month and a half.

Heather enjoys an afternoon skate

The Vail Chapel covers all the bases

A clearing winter storm

We did wander over to Beaver Creek once or twice a week for either social skiing or the Monday Town Series races. As in previous years, we were very un-American and had no car, but the public transportation in Eagle County is fantastic and the lack of car never really bothered us. The Race Series was very good to us, and we won some great stuff, including race gloves (that I traded with a friend who had won a backpack), a boot bag, thermal base-layers, two restaurant gift certificates, a hard-sided ski carrier, and a GoPro (actually we each won a GoPro but we sold one at a nice discount to a friend).

Heather stirs some powder on Grouse Mountain, Beaver Creek

Early morning at the Beav

Kent cruises Raven’s Ridge, Beaver Creek, in a foot of powder

Our goal at the start of our visit was to ski every single day, at least 10 runs and/or 15,000 vertical feet (as measured by Vail’s Epic Mix iPhone app). Part-way into the season we upped our goal to 12 runs and/or 18k vert per day (it’s good to have goals). Along the way I decided to see how long it would take to ride every single lift in Vail once and (only once), all 24 of them. One day when Heather was at a PSIA clinic I caught first chair in Lions Head and then worked my way around the resort. It turns out it takes 30,218 vertical feet and four hours 45 minutes to complete the circuit.

Either “Daft Punk” or a very cold day at Vail

The weather gods continued to smile, because our last day we woke to 8 inches of fresh powder. This was on top of another 10 inches over the previous couple days, so the slopes skied a lot deeper than 8 inches. By quittin’ time I had amassed 829,622 vertical feet and 548 lift rides over 43 straight days. Heather had two days when she wasn’t feeling well and didn’t ski, so she ended up with about 45k feet fewer. But because we’re chronic over-achievers, at least when it comes to vacationing, we averaged over 19k feet and 12.7 lift rides per day. I feel that what we lack in personal ambition, we more than make up for with vacation acumen.

Final turns of the 2017 ski season

We finished our winter out west with a camping trip to Moab, Utah, with our friends Greg and Susan, plus Jen and her dog Miller. Greg and Susan are serious over-achievers when it comes to outdoor stuff. They have an entire cargo van filled with mountain bikes, tents, sleeping bags, cooking gear, coolers, and food. We camped on the mesa above the town for two nights. The first night was perfect, if a little cold; calm wind, clear skies, and temperatures around freezing. The second night was a lot warmer, but also a lot windier, and wasn’t quite as pleasant; a fine film of Utah dust had covered everything by morning. But, we had spent the previous evening at the fantastic Moab Brewery, so no one was too put out.

Taking Susan’s Jeep seriously off-road

Our campsite on Slickrock

A canyon vista near Moab

Back at Susan and Greg’s house near Beaver Creek, we had one final day to do laundry, pack, and visit the Gore Range Brewery (there’s a pattern developing here, I just can’t put my finger on it). Then it was an easy flight home, and with a six-day turn-around we will hopefully be on our way to the Bahamas to take our trawler, Miss Adventure, on her spring cruise through the Exumas and other Bahamian Out Islands.

Champagne powder, Inner Mongolia Bowl

More powder; Heather in Siberia Bowl

Still more powder in Blue Sky Basin

Jen (& Miller) at Crazy Mountain Brewery

“No matter what the cows say”

A hike near Moab

Heather negotiates with Miller regarding appropriate puddle-time

Snow in Vail Village

“Reverse ski tracks” from a windstorm

One more powder pic; me in the “white room”

People often ask us where we live — and it shouldn’t be difficult to answer, but it is. We always say Washington, DC, but the reality is that sometimes our hearts are in Colorado, sometimes our hearts are in France, and sometimes they are in the Bahamas.

Our DC area home is the center of our orbit, and we really look forward to seeing family and friends when we are at home. But those days are rare and treasured as we continue in the fifth year of our Unexcused Absence.

On the race course with friends in Colorado

We returned to Colorado for our fifth ski season this past winter, and it felt like coming home. We spent every single night of the first two weeks hosting dinner at our place and catching up with friends. With our on-hill jobs, maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of the employees around us were newer to the resort than us. And the clerks at the grocery store recognize Heather (mostly because she goes straight from the slopes to the store with no wallet about half the time).

In the Bahamas a few weeks ago

On our recent semi-annual trip to our favorite Bahamian island, we walked into the bar after our mid-afternoon flight and were greeted with Rhonda’s huge smile, a warm hug, and a heart-felt “welcome home.” This put to shame any fancy hotel with their database-driven customer “loyalty” program and a fake-friendly “welcome back to the Ritz Carlton, Dr. Vacation!” greeting from a desk clerk you’ve never met before.

Sunday night community pizza in Lagarde

And most recently, we arrived at Après Ski late Sunday afternoon in France. We had no food (grocery stores are closed on Sundays) and were extremely interested in a group of locals gathered around a small restaurant called “Le Snack Pizza.” We joined the group sitting at a large picnic table and ordered pizzas. As more locals arrived, everybody came to greet us with a handshake or the French cheek kisses (bisou). All the children kissed us except one who ran shyly away to the amusement of the group. We were total strangers in the village, and yet by greeting and sitting with the locals, we were instantly treated as part of the community.

Our favorite vineyard in Champagne

Le Snack Pizza is also emblematic of the cultural differences between the US and France. This “restaurant” was only open one day of the week, Sunday, from 7pm – 10pm. Their menu had four items: pizza (with ham and mushroom); a flamm (sort of a thin pizza with onion and lardon); chicken nuggets; and a “Sandwich Americain” (which resembled a sandwich from the US only in the sense that it had meat between two pieces of bun). Somehow, in France, it’s perfectly acceptable to have a “restaurant” that’s only open one day a week – and then serve four items, only for a few hours.

Our decision several years ago to travel deeply instead of broadly has given us a very different and much more satisfying perspective on the places we are choosing to call home. Now if we could just get the grocery stores in France to consider opening on Sundays…

“Of all the methods of travelling I have ever tried this is the pleasantest. I walk the greater part of the way along the banks of the canal, level, and lined with a double row of trees which furnish shade. When fatigued I take seat in my carriage where, as much at ease as if in my study, I read, write, or observe.”

-Thomas Jefferson, from a letter written as he traveled in France via the Canal du Midi in 1787

Footpath along the Canal du Midi

The canal life soothingly immerses one in gently moving water. While the modern world outside the canals is markedly different since Thomas Jefferson voyaged on the waters of the Canal du Midi, this “pleasantest method of travel” remains nearly unchanged — perhaps even more appealing today than 200 years ago.

Lock mechanism

Our travel along the canal, although powered by diesel rather than by horses, proceeds at the same pace as Thomas Jefferson’s voyage. We accomplish our movements through the locks by hand, operating mechanical gears covered with decades of grease and employing huge levers. The locks use only the powers of water and gravity to move us up and down, carrying our boat as they have countless others for nearly 400 years. We proceed at a pace in tune with our DNA, much slower than modern technology permits but at a speed our bodies understand. We don’t get anywhere quickly at 5 mph.

Night in port

In order to procure supplies or visit the sights of interest, we walk or ride our bicycles. Riding in the cool evening air through the streets on the way to a concert or a restaurant reminds me of college life. When did we start driving everywhere in the evenings? When on land, we move only under our own power; life is simultaneously less and more complicated. We always find a place to park right in the center of town but can only fit so many groceries on Après Ski!

The market in Narbonne

With a refrigerator the size of a large handbag and a pantry only slightly bigger, we eat what is local, fresh and seasonal. Eating also means learning about different local specialities: prunes of Agen, delicate white lingot beans from Castelnaudary, Charolais beef of Bourgogne, fleur-de-sel salt from the Camargue. Regional distinction gives each day a sense of immediacy without creating the anxiety to accomplish which so often accompanies a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Yes, it’s sad when we can no longer find Le Castelou cheese, but a Salers or a cabicou of chèvre appears, taking its place in our routine. Not only do regions change, but during our voyage the season also wanes. Buttercups give way to poppies in the fields, and at the markets strawberries give way to melons which in turn are replaced by peaches and cherries, then grapes and apples. Day to day life changes subtly, but individual days two weeks apart are remarkably different.

Countryside near Sancerre

Carcassone

Traveling at the pace of a brisk walk, we explore French history unfolding in the landscape around us. We travel between châteaux, historical industrial sites, engineering projects, monuments and artistic endeavors at the pace of their builders. We can’t visit four major châteaux in a day because people 500 years ago couldn’t either. We piece together threads; Louis IX, Henry IV, the Capet family, the Guise family, the Dukes of Burgundy and Anjou, slowly untangling the Henrys, the multiple kings named Louis, and all the Marguerites of Bourgogne.

Each day is a distinct segment of travel, a shade different from the day before and the day after. Subtle differences in season, local flavor and history weave the rich tapestry of our voyage. The “pleasantest method of travel,” indeed.

Now that we’ve been on our Unexcused Absence for a little over a year, a few friends/readers had questions for us. On her recent visit with us, Suzanne posed the following questions on behalf of several mutual friends. Our answers are marked “A”, her comments are marked “SG”.

Not Roughing it at All … Apres at Elzabeth’s

Q: Have you stuck to your original budget?

A: Yes and no. We earned less money working at Beaver Creek Resort than we originally planned, but we also enjoyed rental homes that included utilities and internet which saved us money. So, by dialing back some purchases (particularly eating out and clothing) we are able to keep our expenditures in line with the less-than-expected income. We spent more on the initial boat outfitting than expected — I’m sure all boat owners are laughing at that one!

SG: I walked into the Beaver Creek condo and saw Heather was not wearing her fingerless gloves, nor was she wrapped in a blanket. Finding the temperature to be a balmy 72 degrees, I commented “Ah, utilities must be included!”

Q: Was the budget accurate/doable?

A: It was very doable, but in reality it took us years to get to this point. Although we’ve been frugal historically (no cable TV, packing lunches instead of eating out, making saving a priority), over the past two years we radically reduced the amount of stuff that we own while drastically paring back our annual living expenses. We think we spend less than many friends and neighbors on home, cars, dining out, clothing, recreation and entertainment (not to mention children). We like to have a good time, but all of our disposable income is focused on our vacation lifestyle – which doubles as entertainment!

Kent is delighted to receive Scott’s hand-me-downs!

SG: Recently adopted Rule #5 (Embrace Local Knowledge) was in full effect during K/H’s time at Beaver Creek. While I was visiting, K/H scored discount lift tickets, discount dinners, discount liquors, discount beer, discount ski waxing. Much of their ski clothing was won at ski races or obtained as vendor swag giveaways. Leftover sandwiches from funded events were swiped for the next day’s lunch. The car remained in the garage for all but one evening excursion and one grocery run; otherwise, K/H avoided rising gasoline costs by leveraging the free local bus service and walking everywhere else. I made dinner on several evenings in appreciation for lodging; I believe the whole chicken was their first piece of protein in months that hadn’t been shredded in order to stretch it.

Q: Did you save enough money before you started this ‘sabbatical’?

A: Yes, but keep in mind that although we are on an Unexcused Absence, we still earn money by working. Every dollar we earn and every dollar we don’t spend means we can continue this life for just a little bit longer.

SG: Don’t let these two fool you — there is more work being done than they or the photos would imply! Although they are often on the slopes, their day is not the carefree sleep late-ski-restaurant lunch-ski until it’s-time-to-take-a-nap vacation lifestyle. On race or lesson days, they are up early and out the door, backpacks stuffed with gear to accommodate the changing weather. One morning, K left early to work a race for the morning, and I rode the bus with H to the slope, but didn’t ski with her until a two-hour break – and afterwards she returned to work to conduct afternoon lessons. When they are home they are not distracted by television, so late afternoons and evenings are available for coding, writing, organizing, researching. Admittedly, having a two-hour break to ski mid-day is enviable — but they are not lounging at the Ritz enjoying a chinois salad and chardonnay every day. So at the core, the Unexcused Absence sabbatical has evolved a few steps back towards the Vacation Lifestyle – but now their lives are spread between geographically dispersed “homes” — rather than emanating from one central location in northern Virginia.

Q: What mistakes did you make and how would you do it if you could start all over again?

m/v Apres Ski

A: Other than not buying puts on CORV at 80, we made no major mistakes, but would change some minor things given the chance. We think we did well on our boat purchase in France and we can’t imagine getting a better boat for the amount of money we spent. We have an absolute blast living at a major ski area for the entire season, and we don’t regret at all our decision to get part-time jobs with the resort. Although the jobs take away a good bit of our free time, it is fun to be on the “inside” as employees. Minor things we might have changed are getting rid of a few bills earlier (smart phones, land lines, etc.) or focusing on not accumulating so much stuff early on as opposed to trying to sell/give it away later on!

Q: What tips/suggestions do you have for those thinking of embarking on a similar path?

Eric and Sudi’s “Old Timer”

A: Research and planning have been the keys to our success. We spoke with several boat owners in France to understand what sorts of boat- and living-expenses to expect. Kent read a number of books on boat and diesel repair in order to estimate our expenses and to help us with our choice of boat. As for coming to Beaver Creek, we knew friends in town and had spent enough time here that we had a good handle on expected living expenses. Once we knew roughly what to expect, we could adjust our spending habits so that our expenditures didn’t exceed our income once we had made the commitment to a new lifestyle.

Plus, we have Kent’s father, Don, who can assist us with matters that need immediate attention at home. You must have a reliable person to deal with the unexpected, whether a family member or a trusted friend. We couldn’t do this without Don’s “feet-on-the-ground” help!

SG: From my viewpoint, K/H didn’t just research and then act in a one-two-three fashion. First there were numerous dry runs to test their thinking; their thinking evolved; then they implemented the plan. About three years ago during rental barging experiences, K/H initially considered purchasing a much bigger, more luxurious boat for plying the French canals. Due in part to reconnaissance work on both barging and the Colorado lifestyle, they ultimately decided to purchase the (much) smaller Après Ski. Taking jobs at the ski resort also has significant imbedded cost saving benefits of lockers, discounts on lift tickets, food, drinks. After one season at Beaver Creek they were much more savvy about where to live in order to maximize convenience and minimize expenses. The Moral of the Story remains universal: try before you buy.

Q: What technology (hardware and/or software) was invaluable for this journey?

iPad in France

A: Cloud mail, cloud docs, an iPad, a European mobile phone, and two pay-as-you-go wi-fi cellular modems, one for the US and one for France. We also love our MacBooks.

We found that international banking is fraught with hassles and backup credit cards and backup access to cash are critical while traveling. Incidentally, setting up a European bank account is a real hassle. If any of our readers would like more information on that, please feel free to contact us directly.

SG: Know that cables, cords and plugs litter every flat surface in their home — and they can be put into a bag for a trip or pulled out of a bag in a heartbeat in order to take advantage of an outlet. These two look like vagabonds at the airport, and dead batteries are a pox on this lifestyle.

Q: Has this lifestyle impacted your long-term savings plan?

A: Slightly, but not drastically. We haven’t touched our tax-deferred or retirement accounts.

SG: Dang, I wonder if they became part of the 48% of Americans not paying taxes! [editor’s note: almost!]

Q: How do you achieve a sense of home?

At home away from home …. in the galley of a charter boat

A: Our sense of home is defined much more by who is around us rather than what is in any particular place. We certainly insist that our living spaces are clean, but beyond that we don’t have any particular attachment to living with this particular table or that particular vase. Yes, we enjoy our personal items and mementos, but in the wide world one table just isn’t that different from another. We tend to live with a lot of IKEA stuff no matter where we land.

SG: This lifestyle isn’t for the nostalgic; all paintings of Great Uncle Henry, the newspaper from the day of your birth, or family silver from Aunt Betty must be sold. Storing it isn’t an option as storage costs money and that takes away from the vacation lifestyle. It was a tough emotional hurdle for K/H to eliminate nearly all physical mementos from their daily life that would otherwise have to be transported from one place to another. Now, unless a memory can be contained in a photograph that can be digitized it will not be joining them in France or Colorado. On the other hand, once these items are eliminated from life then home can become fairly small!

Q: Financially, how long can you maintain this lifestyle?

A: It’s not clear. We’ve really pared down our living expenses, and as long as we can cover our bills we’re OK. However, we doubt there is a way that this lifestyle can be permanent. We sure scheme and think about it though!

SG: I hereby offer (straw man) terminology: Horizontal Snowbirds. I predict K/H will transit between France, DC, and Colorado for a few years until it isn’t fun anymore, they find a new passion, or life intervenes, whatever. As a casual observer, it appears that when employment can be accomplished remotely or in bursts, then with careful planning and sustained frugality this path may be financially sustainable.

Q: What unintended sacrifices have you made?

The Bryce Gang (current and former) gather in Colorado

A: The most difficult thing is to be away from family and friends. We really regret it when we can’t make it to certain events or gatherings because we’re away. Fortunately, friends do come to visit us from time to time!

On the financial side (and this is minor) we do sometimes miss living in our home (which we’ve rented) as well as nice restaurants, beauty salons, trendy clothing (Heather, certainly not Kent), and the latest electronic gadgets.

SG: There are small daily reminders of the choices that this lifestyle forces K/H to make. I chuckle every time I see Kent eyeing my two iPhones; he smiles knowing that he doesn’t have to pay service contracts. Although large computer monitors offer beautifully sharp images that can be seen without glasses, they are not transportable like a laptop and just don’t work for this lifestyle.

Susan and Heather out show shoeing

Q: Is it hard to make real friends?

A: No, not at all. We dive into the communities of which we are a part. At Beaver Creek, we both volunteer for the Birds of Prey World Cup Ski Race and work at the resort. The commitment required to volunteer for a big event like this self-selects to some very interesting people. Spending 10 or more hard-earned vacation days working long hours outside in the cold and snow (for no pay!) means that our fellow volunteers almost all have quite a different perspective on life. Plus, Kent (and sometimes Heather) races two to three times per week in recreational races and Heather is training for her PSIA certification. We’re constantly meeting great people.

On the waterways, all the boats are constantly in motion. We tend to introduce ourselves to slip neighbors and join in marina community activities (bbq’s, potlucks and watching rugby or soccer matches). Often, boats will cross one another’s paths multiple times during the season if they are traveling the same direction so we tend to see friends several times in one season. It’s called “The Watery Village” for a reason!

SG: Now that K/H are on a “schedule,” friends are finding it easier to make plans to join them in France and/or Colorado.

Q: How is the vacation lifestyle different than what you envisioned?

A: We’re constantly busy! In the winter, we ski, train or race nearly every day. On the waterways, there are always people to meet, boat projects to do, or things to see. Before we began this adventure we pictured ourselves lounging away the days in various exotic vacation destinations. Ha! We have way less free time than we ever imagined.

SG: K/H are stronger, healthier, and are in better physical shape than they have been for many years. (Well, let’s forget about non-recurring accidents!) They are either in motion, or sitting in front of a computer doing work. Movies are rare; no time is spent lounging in front of TV programs (the TV was not even connected to the cable box when I visited in Beaver Creek!).

Life’s a picnic

Q: What is better than you envisioned?

A: As we stray farther from a more “traditional” lifestyle, life’s possibilities and beauty become endless. Material possessions take on less meaning, while our time with each other, with our friends and exploring the wide world gains tremendous value. Plus, especially on the boat, we feel like each day is a full experience. We’re acutely aware of the passing of time, the sun moving across the sky, the rhythms of the animals at different times of the day, etc. And the French seem to experience a day differently than we in America do; most businesses close for a good two hours mid-day, and then close again in the early evening (or even the late afternoon!). So most workers take the time to relax with colleagues over an extended lunch, and they get home early enough to spend meaningful time with their families.

Q: Is there anything left for you two to talk about? Do you even converse when others aren’t around?

A: Absolutely!

SG: On my first morning at Beaver Creek I walked into the kitchen/living room to find K/H each humped over a PC, cereal within reach, not talking to each other. Thinking I had found a flaw in the Unexcused Absence, they reminded me that even in “real life” they typically didn’t speak much in the morning, a time more devoted to reading the paper, catching up on Facebook, etc. I can attest that conversation picked up as each day progressed. Their most animated conversations are regarding the strategy required to sustain or enhance the vacation lifestyle. Kent continues to participate in any conversation about food and sailing in the Caribbean. They still hold hands and kiss.

Beaver Creek Resort. We are back, just over one year later, to the location of our original Unexcused Absence. Much like last winter, Kent works in the Race Department and teaches skiing during peak times or when clients request him.  Heather also works as a ski instructor while training for her PSIA (Professional Ski Instructors of America) Level 2 certification. On days off, we ski!

We feel fortunate to continue our rather self-centered lifestyle for at least a few more months. We constantly discuss how to navigate modern life with its costs and responsibilities while spiritually maintaining our Unexcused Absence lifestyle — unchartered territory for us!

Snowing in Avon

We’re currently ensconced in a cozy condo right in the heart of Avon which looks out directly at the slopes. With little snowfall during the month prior to our arrival, we feel we can certainly take credit for the three storms which have brought snow since our arrival.

We still have lots more to say about our trip to South Africa, and will be posting more on that during the next few weeks.

For now, we wanted to let folks know that we’re currently based out of Beaver Creek, that it’s snowing, and that we’re looking forward to seeing both our visitors and our old friends over the course of the winter.