Unexcused Absences

Quite possibly the social event of the season happened in early May on Staniel Cay. Our friends, who manage a private island, got married and invited the entire island of Staniel Cay, plus us, to a multi-day event. The wedding itself was on Saturday, and a big pig roast was the following day at the community pavilion. Since there’s not much to narrate, I’ll just post some photos.

Gathering at the church

Berkie declares the proceedings a success

The bride and groom

The aftermath

The toast

The dance

The getaway

The party

The late-night Junkanoo

Our first order of business after settling into the central Exumas was to re-acquaint ourselves with our favorite spots and activities. We also had the pleasure of meeting a bunch of new faces.

Yves and Marta are a Belgian/South African couple who were the prior managers of the Fowl Cay Resort, and who were passing through the area on their sailboat. We met them through the current managers. They have a fondness for conch, so with a couple large specimens we had found, plus one more we found snorkeling together, Marta demonstrated her excellent conch-cleaning technique, and we made up a big bowl of conch salad and some fritters using Heather’s time-tested recipe.

Marta cleaning the conch

Preparing the conch salad

Heather’s conch fritters

Moored at Gaulin Cay next to Marta and Yves

Another new couple was Dave and Thryn, who are captain and cook on a private yacht that frequents the area. We met them through a mutual friend and spent several evenings together, both on the happy hour beach at Big Majors and at [redacted] Cay.

On our aft deck with Thryn, David, and our friends from [redacted] Cay

We also got re-acquainted with Greg and Deb, a homebuilder and interior designer who are finishing up a major homebuilding project on South Staniel Cay for a property owner there. Greg somehow stretched the celebration of his 60th birthday to a full week, so there were evenings at the Yacht Club, plus daytime adventure excursions, plus a BBQ on a private island. Remind me to have him schedule my 60th birthday activities.

Birthday cruise for Greg (left)

We also met the new managers of yet another private island in the area, who were having a party on the cay to celebrate his 40th birthday. This party involved some wacky games, including running with snorkel mask and flippers, maneuvering a stand-up paddle-board blindfolded, and a three-legged race. Good fun, and fortunately there was drinking involved.

The “mask and flippers” race at “yet another private island”

The fishing season, too, started out with promise. We were able to catch a number of Mahi, practically every time we went offshore to fish. This gave us many opportunities to have friends over to the Miss Adventure, or to cater fresh fish to various social events. Who doesn’t love freshly caught gamefish, after all. It does my Scottish heart good to pull “free” food from the sea. Of course that “free” food was caught with hundreds of dollars of offshore trolling reels, rods, and lures, but still…

“Miss A” with her fishing arsenal deployed

Success – a nice 11 pound Mahi

The Staniel Cay Yacht Club

After a few weeks, our friends Richard and Laurie, of Forever Young, arrived at Big Major Spot in their motor yacht for their annual 3-month visit. Naturally there was a big dinner party onboard, and we met many fun folks (from the boats Sandpiper, Mint Julep, and Family Business), and Heather was excited to re-start her morning beach workouts with Laurie and whoever else they could shanghai from the anchorage.

Morning yoga and workout, Pirates Beach, Big Major Spot

I have to pause in my narrative now because we did a bunch of fun stuff on various private islands, but because they are private, the requirement for discretion is orthogonal to the desire to publish stories and photos. So let’s just say we did a bunch of fun stuff on various private islands and leave it at that. At this point we had a visitor, a longtime vacation buddy, Mike, who was on the way from California. He arrived at Staniel Cay for 5 quick days of cruising. We took him on a quick tour of the central Exumas and visited Pipe Cay, Pasture Cay (near Bell Island), and Thomas Cay. For the last night he took us to Fowl Cay Resort for dinner, which was quite a treat.

Mike with us at Fowl Cay Resort

We did actually take a trip through the northern part of the southern Exumas, but without all the parties and socializing and projects it was just some nice time to be alone on the boat together – not much to write about. Coming up next is the social event of the season, the wedding of our friend who manages “Large General’s Bits” (not the island’s real name), to be covered in my next post.

Bahamas 2017 Cruise – Exumas Part 1

Home-made pizza at [redacted]

Sunset in the Exumas

Faithful dinghy at Big Farmer’s

The amazing waters of Pipe Creek near Smidgeon Cay

Lunch stop at O’Brien’s Cay

Our beach umbrella

Miss Adventure at Big Farmer’s Cay

Mid March to late March, 2017. After our terrific (if short) ski season at Vail, we paused in DC just long enough to help dad shovel his driveway from a late season snowstorm, then flew to Freeport, Grand Bahama to get re-acquainted with our old trawler, Miss Adventure.

The weather here has been uncommonly cold. We purposely began our cruise 10 weeks later than last year’s adventure, since last year the temperatures didn’t cooperate until early March. We thought we were being so clever, delaying our voyage until the perfect weather would be in place. But when we landed in Grand Bahama, the local taxi driver was wearing a puffy down coat (the temperature was 74). The whole drive to the boatyard he complained about the “wintery” weather. I had to break it to him gently that where we were 3 weeks previously, in Vail, one day the high temperature was zero. Still, I understand his concern, especially when a typical March day in Grand Bahama is in the low 80’s.

It’s the Bahamas; a random wrecked aircraft in the woods

After a few days of provisioning fresh food and commissioning the four engines (two main diesels, a diesel generator, and a 2-stroke outboard), we left Charlton Knowles’ boatyard and dropped anchor in Port Lucaya for a final restaurant meal (the “last supper,” as it were) before a three-day cruise to the central Exumas. Heather’s dad and step-mom, for Christmas, had given us a gift certificate to the Flying Fish, one of the top restaurants in the entire Caribbean. It was every bit as delicious as last year.

Citrus provisions

Happy hour at Flying Fish

First catch; our tuna

Tuna and rice dinner

The weather cooperated perfectly and we had beautiful, calm seas as we headed due south, where we skirted the west side of the Berry Islands, and arrived 12 hours later at Bird Cay to drop anchor for the night. On the way, just as we crossed from the ~20 foot deep “Banks” into the 3000 foot deep Tongue of the Ocean, we saw a large flock of birds diving into the water. That usually means game fish are chasing a school of smaller fish to the surface, so we quickly deployed a couple fishing lines and motored through the chaos. Nothing bit, so we looped around and passed through again, this time getting hits on both our lines. By the time we got one tuna onboard, the other one had thrown his hook, but at least we had dinner for a couple nights in the form of a 4 pound Skipjack.

Sunset in the southern Berrys

The perfect weather continued the following day, and we were again up before dawn for another 12 hour day, this time passing just west of Nassau and across the shallow Exuma Banks to anchor at Hawksbill Cay in the northern Exumas. With the props and prop shafts recently balanced in Georgia, we can make an extra 3/4 knot, which is about 12% faster that last year when we had the bent port-side running gear. That small difference translated into two days of 24 hours instead of three days to make a 27 hour trip.

Anchored at Hawksbill Cay

At Hawksbill we had time to do a short shore exploration, then pointed south again, aiming to arrive at Sampson Cay in the central Exumas just after lunch. When we arrived, though, the forecast strong winds hadn’t arrived yet so we passed through a narrow cut and into the Exuma Sound to try some fishing. We aimed for where the depth drops from around 60 feet to over 2000 feet just off Overyonder Cay, and proceeded to catch a 21.5 pound bull Mahi. He yielded 8.5 pounds of fillets, which will keep us and our friends in fish for a while.

Our Mahi filled our 42 inch cleaning table

We brought the boat (and our fish) in through the cut between Overyonder and Thomas Cay, and anchored off the old marina at Sampson Cay. It was wonderful to be “home”. We needed to stop just short of Staniel Cay to finish up some client work before diving into the continuous socializing that typically marks our time around Staniel. We didn’t go completely unnoticed, though, because within a couple hours our friend, who manages a nearby private island, [redacted] Cay, had spotted our boat and came by for a beer or three.

Cruising on over the shallow Banks

The following day we moved Miss Adventure to the docks at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, just in time for their annual James Bond Party which was happening that evening. EVERYBODY was there, and we had a fantastic time catching up with folks we hadn’t seen since we left the central Exumas almost 11 months ago. We even got a “welcome home” (as opposed to welcome back) from our favorite waitress, Rhonda. We were again rocking our “Q-Branch” labcoats as our nod to the theme of the party.

The James Bond party at Staniel Cay Yacht Club (HT in the lab coat)

Our next stop was Big Major Spot, a mile north of Staniel. We had another social engagement, this time dinner with both the current managers and former managers of the Fowl Cay Resort, as well as a large crew of private island managers from the Staniel Cay Greater Metropolitan Area. The Big Majors anchorage was as popular as ever, with probably two dozen boats of all sizes anchored between “Pig Beach” and the narrows at Fowl Cay.

Anchored at Big Major Spot

Surprisingly, though, there were no boats we knew. Our friends on Z-Raye, Drew and Sharon, were already well past the Bahamas and cruising in the Lesser Antilles, and Brian and Susan, of Good Morning Vietnam, have their boat for sale (what are they thinking?!?) in Deltaville, Virginia. And Richard and Laurie, of Forever Young, aren’t due to arrive for another few weeks.

After the big dinner party we headed a couple miles north to anchor at Twin Cay, a pair of tiny cays that were beautiful, pristine islands but are now under development in some hair-brained scheme to open either a restaurant or bungalows or a private residence. You never quite know in the Bahamas.

So that’s where things stand; Miss Adventure is working well, all our local friends are still around, a number of changes are in the works around the area, and we’re very excited to be back cruising the turquoise waters of the Exumas.

Bahamas 2017 Cruise – Grand Bahama to the Exumas

Reflecting on our winter’s cruise …

I’m catching up on sharing what I learned during our Bahamian cruise last winter …

The safety plan for our European canal boat Après Ski is pretty simple – walk to shore (in the chest-deep water) and avoid swallowing canal water. Yes, we have life vests, a life ring, a bell and a horn, but not a whole lot more.

Preparing for our Bahamian adventure aboard the Miss Adventure, by contrast, required a lot more planning. Fortunately, we know experienced cruisers and the folks at Briartek whose business is safety at sea. After doing my research, I boiled our safety plan down as follows:

Safety when Cruising Part A: Initial Preparations

Step 1 – US Coast Guard and State of Virginia Compliance

After registering our vessel and our dinghy, we ensured they met all US Coast Guard regulations. I found helpful resources on the US Coast Guard Auxiliary and Boat US websites. I particularly liked this 45-page booklet from the safety division of the US Coast Guard.

Next, I requested a mock USCG inspection through the US Coast Guard Auxiliary. (I gave a small donation as a thank-you.) This ‘practice run’ was an opportunity to bring a set of expert set of eyes aboard. Eight months later when the Coast Guard boarded the Miss Adventure, I knew our boat would pass their inspection thanks to the mock inspection done by the Coast Guard Auxiliary.

The Coast Guard boards the Miss Adventure

Virginia compliance was easy. The State of Virginia required us to pass the Virginia Boating Safety Course. Boat US offers an excellent online tutorial/test combination which meets the state’s requirements.

Step 2 – The Ditch Bag

When you abandon ship, what will you take with you? Your ditch bag. This waterproof bag remains prepared and accessible at all times should you abandon ship. We tailored our ditch bag for coastal cruising in semi-tropical waters and popular areas. In our bag we keep the following (and if you use the links below to link directly to Amazon, you’ll help defray the costs of running this website):

• a Cerberus rescue beacon (charged every Saturday), described in detail in Step 3
• hand-held marine VHF radio (charged weekly along with the Cerberus unit)
• blood-clotting sponge
• bandages, butterfly closures, medical tape, and gauze
• SAM splint
• disinfectant towelettes
• antibiotic cream
• saline wash
• basic over-the-counter medications (ibuprofen, Tylenol, anti-histamine, anti-diarrhea)
• water
• food (unsalted almonds)
• waterproof flashlight
• extra clothing, hats, and sunglasses
• copies of our passports, boat registration and credit card (in a zip-lock bag)
• emergency funds
• a solar-powered, inflatable lantern
• emergency flares
• multi-tool

We store these items in two waterproof bags. The smaller ditch bag contains water, some snacks, protective clothing and the VHF radio. We take this ditch bag each time we ride in our dinghy (lessons learned!). The second ditch bag holdes the rest of the survival gear and extra water. Both bags have reflective tape on the outside to assist in the event of a night-time ditch.

Step 3 – Additional Safety Items not Required by the USCG

• Cerberus Unit

At the top of our ditch bag list is our Cerberus unit from Briartek. Briartek produces safety equipment for the US Navy and large, sea-going vessels. A few years ago, they began offering personal safety devices. We used the unit on a trip to Africa and asked if we could borrow another for our cruise.

A Cerberus is a satellite communicator and GPS unit, similar to a Spot or a DeLorme InReach. It’s a waterproof device that sends and receives messages and your position via satellite. Linking your smartphone to the Cerberus allows you to send and receive text messages. It is also possible to send a general distress signal simply by pressing a button on the unit. Since the Cerberus is also a GPS, it can inform rescue professionals of your exact location. It’s nice to know somebody’s got our back when we’re at sea! If the worst happens, the ocean’s a big place and we would prefer help to arrive as quickly as possible.

I highly encourage folks to consider a satellite communications device. Cruisers often forget that emergencies can happen back at home. Having two-way communication is extremely valuable. If you’re worried about the price of a unit, Briartek also rents Cerberus units.

• Water-activated lights on our PFD’s

Step 4 – Develop a Man-Overboard Plan

All hands need to regularly walk-through the man-overboard plan. If somebody falls over, you need to act quickly and have your tools ready. Man overboard procedures will vary from boat to boat so regular reviews are important.

Chatting with fellow cruisers

Safety when Cruising Part B : Before each Voyage

Step 1 – Develop and Follow a Safety Checklist

The Miss A has a checklist of to-do’s before we head for open water. First, we secure any loose items on deck and below. We take water, snacks, and extra food to the bridge, preparing to ride out a storm from our flybridge. If conditions get rough, we are already prepared. We always have enough unsalted almonds and water on the bridge to live for a couple of days!

I prepare a full suite of meals and snacks, doing no work in the galley while at sea. I also prepare an extra meal or two in case the journey is longer than anticipated. On the Miss A, we minimize trips below if seas are rough.

Avoid cruising in this by checking the forecast!

Dr. V. double checks the engines’ health the night before setting out, topping up all fluids, etc. We charge our portable VHF and Cerberus unit, iPhones, iPad before to departure.

We double check our safety equipment, ensuring our throwable floats are within easy reach.

We also communicate with our fellow boaters to find others with similar plans. Traveling with other boats allows us to stay in touch and monitor one other’s safety and progress. It can be great to have another boat nearby if you need assistance.

Step 2 – File a Float Plan

A float plan provides all relevant information about our voyage in a single document. We file this plan with a friend, who monitors our progress. If we fail to arrive at our destination, our friend contacts the relevant authorities. Our plan contains our departure, our destination and our latest estimated arrival time. It contains contacts for local authorities, the US Coast Guard and our Bahamian boatyard. It also provides our BoatUS worldwide towing policy information. Our friend also has a current photograph of us and our boat, helpful in a search and rescue. You can find a free float plan here.

Step 3 – Wait for Good Weather, ALWAYS

The best solution to a problem at sea is to avoid having the problem. We religiously check the weather, using multiple sources. It’s often said that the single most dangerous thing on a boat is a schedule!

Encountering sleeping pilot whales in open water

Safety when Cruising Part C: Underway

Step 1 – Wear your PFD

When the USCG boarded us on our return trip to the USA, they seemed surprised that we were wearing our life jackets. That’s a pretty sad commentary! It’s absurd not to wear one when in open or rough water.

Step 2 – Develop a system to track each other 100% of the time

The Miss A is large enough and loud enough that we can’t always see or hear one another. Our flybridge sits high atop the boat, an isolated pod. Going below deck requires a trip down a ladder and a walk around the outside of the boat, where one is exposed to the open sea. Whenever we are not both on the flybridge, we communicate our plans before moving. When moving about the boat, we maintain visual contact until the other crew member is safe. A VHF radio is always on below deck (just remember, everybody can hear you!).

I hope these suggestions help my fellow cruisers enjoy safe and relaxing voyages!

I will be the first to admit that I have been extremely lax about blog post for quite some time. In fact, I don’t believe I’ve posted since the first week of our cruise — to the Bahamas. There are quite a few excuses (preparing for the Bahamas, living in the Bahamas, enjoying the Bahamas, actually working from the Bahamas), but all pretty lame when you consider Dr. V. has kept up with his regular postings.

I have lots of things to share with my good readers, including a lot of tips on provisioning, cooking and cruising in the Bahamas. It seems silly to post on the Bahamas from France. Never-the-less, I shall give it a try!

Look for future posts on our Bahamas cruise about:

-safety when cruising and the importance of a ditch bag

-provisioning

-recipes for cruisers

Our Bahamian winter proved to be a real adventure (requiring real work), but absolutely worth the effort. Now that we are ‘relaxing’ on the canals, it’s time for me to catch up!

The Exumas, where sea and sky merge