Unexcused Absences

There comes a time in every Washingtonian’s life when the work hours get to be too much, finding good quality food gets to be too expensive and getting people to laugh gets to be too exhausting. This is when having friends living on a canal boat in France, with extra space, comes in handy.

When Life Gives You Lemons, Book a Ticket to France.

No one here thinks I'm funny

After finding some decent airfare to Paris (and by “decent” I mean decent for Asia – or Paris in the summer), within weeks of my deciding to run away from DC I found myself on a Delta flight bound to Paris via Cincinnati. Relax, this blog won’t recount every minor detail of my trip but take note, this is actually an important lesson I learned: Don’t fly Delta to France, fly Air France! On Delta you get one TV for every 20 passengers and American customer service. On Air France you get your own TV, Champagne, Cognac and French service. While the service can balance itself out, the quality of alcohol and entertainment cannot. Don’t make the same mistake I did – thankfully only one way.

Meeting up with team Heather and Kent (HK) took a little work, but it was quite easy. Flight to Paris > bus to train station (Air France’s Les Cars to Gare de Lyon) > train to Dijon > transfer > train to Montbard, Burgundy. Using their sixth sense, HK were able to greet me before I even stepped off the train. Better yet? Their boat was only a 5 minute walk where they greeted me with a delightful bottle of sparkling rosé.

Author’s note: this blog post perhaps should come with its own movie-like rating system. Let’s make it NC 17-65. Mom, Dad; I promise you my liver is just fine and I do not have “a problem.”

Champagne greeting!

One bottle of sparkling wine inevitably leads to another and just like that, we were fully in happy hour mode. While opening bottle #2, it hit me – or rather a bird’s sh*t hit me – smack on the arm. As my close friends know, I’m a magnet for confused birds, and their poo. Like the cute old lady who sold Diane Lane the old house in Under the Tuscan Sun, I decided it was a sign – “Un sueno!”– of good times to come.

Montbard proved to be a lovely town complete with a fresh market, a mobile store to fix HK’s internet problem, a gorgeous church as seen from the exterior (come to think of it, I never got to see the inside of any church while I was there…perhaps the heavens/fates knew better and deemed me unworthy) and most importantly, a pizza joint that was playing the Germany vs. Italy game. Delirious from jetlag, I forced myself to stay awake to watch Germany get beat by Italy for the semi-final EuroCup game (booo!). Deciding I must have imagined this horrible defeat, it was time for bed.

The party venue at Buffon Forge

The previous night’s event seemed to haunt me in day 2 where we visited the “Buffon Parc” and “Buffon Museum”. Coincidentally, “Buffon” is the name of Italy’s goal keeper who blocked my beloved Germany’s every attempt on goal the night before. France’s “Buffon” was a naturalist (nature, not nudity) and a scientist who really wanted to study butterflies and squirrels but France decided his skills were best spent building and mining iron. I don’t get the French. Regardless, the grounds of the Buffon Forges were impressive but instead of all the “engineering feats” I was supposed to be awing, I couldn’t help but think – this space would make for an amazing party venue.

After a few more minutes (hours? Who can really tell when you’re floating down the canals of Burgundy), we tied up to where we’d stay the night and fell into the usual routine of canal-life; happy hour on the deck, take turns showering and cleaning up for dinner, take turns making dinner or continuing happy hour, eat dinner on the deck with a bottle of amazing wine found at [insert delicious French winery] HK were at in this beautiful town of [insert name of beautiful French town], followed up with an after-dinner drink of Muscat, Armagnac, Port, or some sort of rubbing alcohol that Kent tried to get me to drink. Normally it was just one glass of the after dinner drink. Sometimes it was…more than that.

Sunset from deck

As it should be all year round, the sun in France doesn’t set until about 10:30pm and rises at about… 6:00am? I have no idea, I’m not going to lie to you. Later sunsets allowed for longer evenings and plenty of time for a proper happy hour(s), extended dinners, and late night strolls/mini pilgrimages to see to see “what’s on the other side of the bridge?” before bed. Mornings greeted me with fresh pastries or a baguette from the boulangerie (that’s French for the best store in town) with Nutella on it. Ahhh, Nutella. That creamy smooth chocolate and hazelnut goodness that I somehow avoided during my studies in Italy (quite likely because my roommate “Lynn” wanted it all for herself). Heather made the silly assumption that the remnants in their current jar would be enough for my week’s stay. An honest mistake I quickly corrected by buying another jar on my second day which I do believe was polished off by my last day.

The dual-purpose "toy"

Aside from Nutella, baguettes, wine, CHEESE (how have I not mentioned the cheese yet?!), salads, cookies, and chocolate, our days were filled with visiting quaint locks (elevators for boats), meandering down the canals and seeing nothing but gorgeous rolling hills of wheat or grapes, and visiting château. As you’ve seen from Kent’s previous post, the Château are incredible – as are the stories they house. Stories like “this is the dining room, where the lady of the house ‘accidentally’ burned herself to death in front of her guests” (how exactly does one accidentally burn oneself to death in front of a crowd of people?) and “this childhood toy proved most useful for women when their men were away at war” (see image at right – use your imagination) and the secret room in Château de Tanlay where there’s a fresco of mythical gods and goddesses painted with the faces of their 16th century contemporaries (how modest)! This is why I have an art history undergraduate degree; the only things my mind seems to retain are the ridiculous stories.

Sex, scandal, and death aren’t the only topics I learned about on this trip – I also learned about cheese! Heather graciously (and perhaps mistakenly) allowed me to read her iPad version of The Cheese Lover’s Companion: The Ultimate A to Z Cheese Guide. Did you know that you should never re- wrap cheese in its original wrapping? That most cheese should be left out at room temperature for an hour before consumption? That aged blue cheese is phenomenal with a drizzle of honey on top? And that you should never, under any circumstance, cross-contaminate cheeses by using one knife for multiple cheeses. HK know this, now. And I made it my personal duty to ensure that the laws of cheese were followed on Après Ski.

I could easily turn this blog post into a (wannabe) Oprah best-selling novel but I’ll wrap it up and say that in all, my time cruising the French canals with HK was one of the best trips I’ve ever experienced. Some people may think they’ve lost their minds to drop out of society for months at a time – but I think that’s what makes them brilliant. Life on the boat is simpler. Not in the same vein that camping is “simpler” either. The closest I felt to “roughing it” was drinking French wine that came from a box – and admitting it was GOOD! It’s more that the pace was simpler, food was fresher, work was shorter, and people we met were more eager to laugh. Or maybe they just thought I was funny.

My visit by the numbers:

• Château visited: 4
• New cheeses discovered: 9
• Pastries eaten: 11
• Bottles of wine consumed: 187*

(*I’m kidding. Bottles of wine, like calories, should never be counted while on vacation)

Me wanting what's behind door #1, hoping it's Hobbits

Kent hard at work

Heather hard at work

The couple forgetting about work for a while

Now that we’ve been on our Unexcused Absence for a little over a year, a few friends/readers had questions for us. On her recent visit with us, Suzanne posed the following questions on behalf of several mutual friends. Our answers are marked “A”, her comments are marked “SG”.

Not Roughing it at All … Apres at Elzabeth’s

Q: Have you stuck to your original budget?

A: Yes and no. We earned less money working at Beaver Creek Resort than we originally planned, but we also enjoyed rental homes that included utilities and internet which saved us money. So, by dialing back some purchases (particularly eating out and clothing) we are able to keep our expenditures in line with the less-than-expected income. We spent more on the initial boat outfitting than expected — I’m sure all boat owners are laughing at that one!

SG: I walked into the Beaver Creek condo and saw Heather was not wearing her fingerless gloves, nor was she wrapped in a blanket. Finding the temperature to be a balmy 72 degrees, I commented “Ah, utilities must be included!”

Q: Was the budget accurate/doable?

A: It was very doable, but in reality it took us years to get to this point. Although we’ve been frugal historically (no cable TV, packing lunches instead of eating out, making saving a priority), over the past two years we radically reduced the amount of stuff that we own while drastically paring back our annual living expenses. We think we spend less than many friends and neighbors on home, cars, dining out, clothing, recreation and entertainment (not to mention children). We like to have a good time, but all of our disposable income is focused on our vacation lifestyle – which doubles as entertainment!

Kent is delighted to receive Scott’s hand-me-downs!

SG: Recently adopted Rule #5 (Embrace Local Knowledge) was in full effect during K/H’s time at Beaver Creek. While I was visiting, K/H scored discount lift tickets, discount dinners, discount liquors, discount beer, discount ski waxing. Much of their ski clothing was won at ski races or obtained as vendor swag giveaways. Leftover sandwiches from funded events were swiped for the next day’s lunch. The car remained in the garage for all but one evening excursion and one grocery run; otherwise, K/H avoided rising gasoline costs by leveraging the free local bus service and walking everywhere else. I made dinner on several evenings in appreciation for lodging; I believe the whole chicken was their first piece of protein in months that hadn’t been shredded in order to stretch it.

Q: Did you save enough money before you started this ‘sabbatical’?

A: Yes, but keep in mind that although we are on an Unexcused Absence, we still earn money by working. Every dollar we earn and every dollar we don’t spend means we can continue this life for just a little bit longer.

SG: Don’t let these two fool you — there is more work being done than they or the photos would imply! Although they are often on the slopes, their day is not the carefree sleep late-ski-restaurant lunch-ski until it’s-time-to-take-a-nap vacation lifestyle. On race or lesson days, they are up early and out the door, backpacks stuffed with gear to accommodate the changing weather. One morning, K left early to work a race for the morning, and I rode the bus with H to the slope, but didn’t ski with her until a two-hour break – and afterwards she returned to work to conduct afternoon lessons. When they are home they are not distracted by television, so late afternoons and evenings are available for coding, writing, organizing, researching. Admittedly, having a two-hour break to ski mid-day is enviable — but they are not lounging at the Ritz enjoying a chinois salad and chardonnay every day. So at the core, the Unexcused Absence sabbatical has evolved a few steps back towards the Vacation Lifestyle – but now their lives are spread between geographically dispersed “homes” — rather than emanating from one central location in northern Virginia.

Q: What mistakes did you make and how would you do it if you could start all over again?

m/v Apres Ski

A: Other than not buying puts on CORV at 80, we made no major mistakes, but would change some minor things given the chance. We think we did well on our boat purchase in France and we can’t imagine getting a better boat for the amount of money we spent. We have an absolute blast living at a major ski area for the entire season, and we don’t regret at all our decision to get part-time jobs with the resort. Although the jobs take away a good bit of our free time, it is fun to be on the “inside” as employees. Minor things we might have changed are getting rid of a few bills earlier (smart phones, land lines, etc.) or focusing on not accumulating so much stuff early on as opposed to trying to sell/give it away later on!

Q: What tips/suggestions do you have for those thinking of embarking on a similar path?

Eric and Sudi’s “Old Timer”

A: Research and planning have been the keys to our success. We spoke with several boat owners in France to understand what sorts of boat- and living-expenses to expect. Kent read a number of books on boat and diesel repair in order to estimate our expenses and to help us with our choice of boat. As for coming to Beaver Creek, we knew friends in town and had spent enough time here that we had a good handle on expected living expenses. Once we knew roughly what to expect, we could adjust our spending habits so that our expenditures didn’t exceed our income once we had made the commitment to a new lifestyle.

Plus, we have Kent’s father, Don, who can assist us with matters that need immediate attention at home. You must have a reliable person to deal with the unexpected, whether a family member or a trusted friend. We couldn’t do this without Don’s “feet-on-the-ground” help!

SG: From my viewpoint, K/H didn’t just research and then act in a one-two-three fashion. First there were numerous dry runs to test their thinking; their thinking evolved; then they implemented the plan. About three years ago during rental barging experiences, K/H initially considered purchasing a much bigger, more luxurious boat for plying the French canals. Due in part to reconnaissance work on both barging and the Colorado lifestyle, they ultimately decided to purchase the (much) smaller Après Ski. Taking jobs at the ski resort also has significant imbedded cost saving benefits of lockers, discounts on lift tickets, food, drinks. After one season at Beaver Creek they were much more savvy about where to live in order to maximize convenience and minimize expenses. The Moral of the Story remains universal: try before you buy.

Q: What technology (hardware and/or software) was invaluable for this journey?

iPad in France

A: Cloud mail, cloud docs, an iPad, a European mobile phone, and two pay-as-you-go wi-fi cellular modems, one for the US and one for France. We also love our MacBooks.

We found that international banking is fraught with hassles and backup credit cards and backup access to cash are critical while traveling. Incidentally, setting up a European bank account is a real hassle. If any of our readers would like more information on that, please feel free to contact us directly.

SG: Know that cables, cords and plugs litter every flat surface in their home — and they can be put into a bag for a trip or pulled out of a bag in a heartbeat in order to take advantage of an outlet. These two look like vagabonds at the airport, and dead batteries are a pox on this lifestyle.

Q: Has this lifestyle impacted your long-term savings plan?

A: Slightly, but not drastically. We haven’t touched our tax-deferred or retirement accounts.

SG: Dang, I wonder if they became part of the 48% of Americans not paying taxes! [editor’s note: almost!]

Q: How do you achieve a sense of home?

At home away from home …. in the galley of a charter boat

A: Our sense of home is defined much more by who is around us rather than what is in any particular place. We certainly insist that our living spaces are clean, but beyond that we don’t have any particular attachment to living with this particular table or that particular vase. Yes, we enjoy our personal items and mementos, but in the wide world one table just isn’t that different from another. We tend to live with a lot of IKEA stuff no matter where we land.

SG: This lifestyle isn’t for the nostalgic; all paintings of Great Uncle Henry, the newspaper from the day of your birth, or family silver from Aunt Betty must be sold. Storing it isn’t an option as storage costs money and that takes away from the vacation lifestyle. It was a tough emotional hurdle for K/H to eliminate nearly all physical mementos from their daily life that would otherwise have to be transported from one place to another. Now, unless a memory can be contained in a photograph that can be digitized it will not be joining them in France or Colorado. On the other hand, once these items are eliminated from life then home can become fairly small!

Q: Financially, how long can you maintain this lifestyle?

A: It’s not clear. We’ve really pared down our living expenses, and as long as we can cover our bills we’re OK. However, we doubt there is a way that this lifestyle can be permanent. We sure scheme and think about it though!

SG: I hereby offer (straw man) terminology: Horizontal Snowbirds. I predict K/H will transit between France, DC, and Colorado for a few years until it isn’t fun anymore, they find a new passion, or life intervenes, whatever. As a casual observer, it appears that when employment can be accomplished remotely or in bursts, then with careful planning and sustained frugality this path may be financially sustainable.

Q: What unintended sacrifices have you made?

The Bryce Gang (current and former) gather in Colorado

A: The most difficult thing is to be away from family and friends. We really regret it when we can’t make it to certain events or gatherings because we’re away. Fortunately, friends do come to visit us from time to time!

On the financial side (and this is minor) we do sometimes miss living in our home (which we’ve rented) as well as nice restaurants, beauty salons, trendy clothing (Heather, certainly not Kent), and the latest electronic gadgets.

SG: There are small daily reminders of the choices that this lifestyle forces K/H to make. I chuckle every time I see Kent eyeing my two iPhones; he smiles knowing that he doesn’t have to pay service contracts. Although large computer monitors offer beautifully sharp images that can be seen without glasses, they are not transportable like a laptop and just don’t work for this lifestyle.

Susan and Heather out show shoeing

Q: Is it hard to make real friends?

A: No, not at all. We dive into the communities of which we are a part. At Beaver Creek, we both volunteer for the Birds of Prey World Cup Ski Race and work at the resort. The commitment required to volunteer for a big event like this self-selects to some very interesting people. Spending 10 or more hard-earned vacation days working long hours outside in the cold and snow (for no pay!) means that our fellow volunteers almost all have quite a different perspective on life. Plus, Kent (and sometimes Heather) races two to three times per week in recreational races and Heather is training for her PSIA certification. We’re constantly meeting great people.

On the waterways, all the boats are constantly in motion. We tend to introduce ourselves to slip neighbors and join in marina community activities (bbq’s, potlucks and watching rugby or soccer matches). Often, boats will cross one another’s paths multiple times during the season if they are traveling the same direction so we tend to see friends several times in one season. It’s called “The Watery Village” for a reason!

SG: Now that K/H are on a “schedule,” friends are finding it easier to make plans to join them in France and/or Colorado.

Q: How is the vacation lifestyle different than what you envisioned?

A: We’re constantly busy! In the winter, we ski, train or race nearly every day. On the waterways, there are always people to meet, boat projects to do, or things to see. Before we began this adventure we pictured ourselves lounging away the days in various exotic vacation destinations. Ha! We have way less free time than we ever imagined.

SG: K/H are stronger, healthier, and are in better physical shape than they have been for many years. (Well, let’s forget about non-recurring accidents!) They are either in motion, or sitting in front of a computer doing work. Movies are rare; no time is spent lounging in front of TV programs (the TV was not even connected to the cable box when I visited in Beaver Creek!).

Life’s a picnic

Q: What is better than you envisioned?

A: As we stray farther from a more “traditional” lifestyle, life’s possibilities and beauty become endless. Material possessions take on less meaning, while our time with each other, with our friends and exploring the wide world gains tremendous value. Plus, especially on the boat, we feel like each day is a full experience. We’re acutely aware of the passing of time, the sun moving across the sky, the rhythms of the animals at different times of the day, etc. And the French seem to experience a day differently than we in America do; most businesses close for a good two hours mid-day, and then close again in the early evening (or even the late afternoon!). So most workers take the time to relax with colleagues over an extended lunch, and they get home early enough to spend meaningful time with their families.

Q: Is there anything left for you two to talk about? Do you even converse when others aren’t around?

A: Absolutely!

SG: On my first morning at Beaver Creek I walked into the kitchen/living room to find K/H each humped over a PC, cereal within reach, not talking to each other. Thinking I had found a flaw in the Unexcused Absence, they reminded me that even in “real life” they typically didn’t speak much in the morning, a time more devoted to reading the paper, catching up on Facebook, etc. I can attest that conversation picked up as each day progressed. Their most animated conversations are regarding the strategy required to sustain or enhance the vacation lifestyle. Kent continues to participate in any conversation about food and sailing in the Caribbean. They still hold hands and kiss.

Happy hour with Dad

I had the privilege to cop an invitation to cruise the Canal du Midi with Heather and Kent. It was an experience I will never forget and I mean this in a very positive way. I step off the train in Béziers – a small town in southern France – and into a completely new world. Gone is the rush of schedules, the tyranny of hotels, and being a slave to a clock. We rise when we feel like it. Find a boulangerie and buy a baguette for breakfast. Feast on fresh bread, cheeses, jams, and freshly brewed coffee. We slip our mooring lines and motor leisurely along tree-shaded canals. We make our lunch of more bread and cheese. We stop when we feel like it and tie up to a bank or possibly a bollard if near a village. We can wander through quaint villages; if lucky, visit centuries-old churches; drop in at a winery and sample the local specialties; and maybe, enjoy a local restaurant’s offerings or Heather’s latest creation come dinner time. When night falls we remain on our floating home. No pressure, no problems (I might add I am not the boat’s owner and so don’t have to worry about maintenance.)

The second-best baguette in France

What I find particularly unusual is the camaraderie and support of other barge owners. It seems to be its own special world. You own a barge and decorate it to suit yourself. Your unique decor – which probably includes flags and flowers – sets you apart from the weekly renters. You have now joined a special clique. You will meet up time and again with the same owners as you cruise the canals. They will be your support group and your special friends. They are there to help with problems, offer advice, and give recommendations on sights, restaurants, and good maintenance people. We might spend late afternoons enjoying a happy hour with some or meet others for a joint visit to a restaurant. There is no feeling of loneliness or being an outsider. Closely allied to the network of helping friends is the friendliness of some of the maintenance staff at the boat rentals. In spite of the fact you own a boat and are not renting from them, they willingly share tools, advice, and the odds and ends you soon realize you need.

Dad helping with a lock

My previous experiences in France were mostly of Paris and the Parisians’ impatience with my very rudimentary attempts at French. Now I found myself in a country where people are exceptionally friendly and go out of their way to make me feel at home. We stopped to visit a special winery and called to make an appointment to visit it on Monday since the day we called was Sunday and the place was closed. They wouldn’t hear of it. We were invited to come right over and spent a charming afternoon getting to meet the vintner, his wife, and a daughter who was preparing to go to Australia to study law. We certainly weren’t outsiders; we were treated as close friends. In another instance, a waitress who served us one evening at a local restaurant saw us the next morning wandering through town, remembered who we were and happily greeted us. At a different winery, we were allowed to wander among the crew who were bottling the local wines. Nobody shooed us away. We arrived in another village and found all the mooring blocks taken. Not a problem; the operator of a pedal boat rental told us to use one of his reserved spots for the night. Locals tipped us off to the best boulangeries. Merchants in the markets willingly offered samples of their wares. Water was available for filling our tanks. On the rare occasions we had to pay for a mooring – seldom very expensive – we got electricity, water, and on-shore showers thrown in. This is not the France I remembered.

[The following is a guest post from our dear friend and vacation lifestyle confidant/conspirator, Suzanne.]

I was recently in Beaver Creek enjoying the hospitality of Dr. and Mrs. Vacation.   As a long time friend, neighbor and traveling companion, I happily celebrate their adventure and achievement.  However, blog readers need to know that their journey to this point was anything but glamorous.  Once the Agreement to take time off was signed (read about it here), Kent and Heather (K/H) went into savings overdrive with a focus on managing expenses.  In retrospect, those actions impacted their lives in many ways.

Pre agreement, K/H would often meet friends over dinner at various restaurants and clubs.  Post agreement, all restaurant meals disappeared from their social calendar.  In fact, everything about meals changed. When K/H issued a dinner invitation, meat generally became a condiment rather than a focus of the meal.  A solid piece of meat or chicken was ground up or shredded in order to stretch it.   Individual bottles of wine disappeared and were replaced by a box or liter format containers. Meal portions were carefully rationed to provide subsequent meals. Leftover bratwurst purchased for a client appreciation or community party became the basis for an evening celebration with friends.

Additionally, K/H controlled electricity costs of their 1950s home with a vengeance.  In the winter, I went to visit knowing the house would be chilly…well, cold.  Kent would typically greet visitors dressed as Nanook of the North.  Heather admitted that she worked at the computer wearing heavy socks, sweater, slippers — plus a blanket.  Summer had the opposite effect.  Gatherings on sweltering summer DC evening were held outside —  because it was still cooler than being inside the fan-only cooled house!

And while on the topic of the house, in preparing for the year off, K/H renovated their home to make it more appealing to the market — doing much of the work themselves — and living in it during construction.  Then they heavily edited their belongings — often at great emotional cost.  Their home is now rented to generate income — and save expenses.

Clothing purchases can have a significant impact on a budget, and that was addressed as well.  During the heady days of telecom employment, I remember Kent purchasing a lovely designer suit to wear at a series of black tie events.   Now he shops at Target and Wal-Mart.  Heather has been spotted shopping at Goodwill on more than one occasion, and I doubt she’ll ever again purchase a Tommy Bahama swimsuit.

I reveal these insights not to ridicule or demean, but to illustrate that achieving a dream typically comes with a price tag.  From my perspective as an investment advisor, unless you are Bill Gates, one has limited assets — so one must set priorities to determine which desires will be fulfilled and which will go by the wayside.  Kent and Heather did exactly that — primarily by cost cutting decisions that others might find unpalatable.  I also note that the decision to remain child-free contributed significantly toward their ability to take a year off.  Luck has also played into their story; both Kent and Heather are very healthy, physically strong individuals — and their family responsibilities are minimal.

So I raise my glass to celebrate not only Kent and Heather’s year off but the journey as well:  Cheers to the fruits of frugality!  I love it when a plan comes together!